Thursday, 2 January 2014

The Real Vietnam

Today was more of a travel day through some less glamorous parts of the country between Halong City and back to Hanoi. In order to leave Cat Ba Island the best option was to join an organised tourist boat tour through the world famous Halong Bay. To be honest it was a bit of a disappointment compared to the quiet, clean and unspoilt Lan Ha bay so anyone who visits here take it from us that is a better option than the busy and touristy area we went through today. It was kind of fun though, as we were never sure if we were being scammed or not by the tour organisers until we actually arrived back in Hanoi - never trust a Chelsea fan! After being ushered like lost sheep into the guys friends restaurant half way through the journey (quite how having a cage of mangy looking caged turkey's outside of your restaurant is meant to entice people inside to eat I have no idea!) and it seems we had to eat there before we were allowed back on the bus! Gotta give these guys credit really, the hoteliers, taxi drivers, bus drivers, restauranteurs and boat pilots have definitely learnt how to work together to maximise tourist earnings potential! We met a bunch of miserable looking grumpy backpackers on this leg of the journey - they had clearly not experienced the hospitality we have so far. Looking out of the bus window looking at the less than glamorous semi-urban area of the country between Halong City and Hanoi with huge landfill sites, delapadated buildings, old (and maybe current?) sweatshops, factories and litter strewn roads it did make the mind contemplate what is the 'real Vietnam'. This term was first introduced to us by the tour guide when we went on a rather touristy excursion to Perfume Pagoda. This lovely but clearly sanitised experience was surely not the Real Vietnam?

Is the real Vietnam found in the bustling sprawling cities like Hanoi where life is fast paced and non stop? This is certainly real, but is it what you would call the true Vietnam?

Is it in the lovely towns like Cat Ba, where the beaches are pristine and the streets calm and clean and all the locals are employed directly or indirectly by the mild tourist trade they receive? Probably not.

Is it in the fields, mud flats, floating houses, fishing boats and paddy fields. The area where all the people seem to have a hugely industrious nature, always busy doing something or if not busy looking like they want to be. Or is it outside on the streets where people seem to spend 99% of their lives. People cook, eat, clean, play and work on the pavement. They live their lives outside in the company of animals, traffic and other people. Always talking, discussing and doing business on the street. Even it seems epic full scale family arguments take place in the street, much to the bemusement/amusement of onlookers and relaxed police officers. Homes appear empty during the day, and whilst there are often televisions on, people hardly ever seem to be there to watch them...peoples lives are open to the world for world to see and share.

I suppose this is a question which will be pondered more over the coming weeks and expand the scope into Cambodia and Thailand, but for now I would like to think it is perhaps a combination of all of the above - all these aspects forming this complex but warm, rich and friendly culture. God bless you Vietnam and your people.

For now tho after enjoying some more street food in the company of a lovely, and hilarious, Canadian couple (hi Don and Paula!) it was time to board our first Vietnamese sleeper train (on our way to Dong Hoi and the treats that lie in store in the Phong Na Khe Bang National Park) - and I tell you wha it ain't half bad!! 

We have a special treat in store for you tomorrow as well with guest blogger J-bizzle Bradford introducing our new fun weekly feature...watch this space! Tom







1 comment:

  1. Yes, that old nut 'what is real'? Travel raises more questions than answers but so much easier (and more fun) trying to find them whilst living, breathing, feeling the soul of the country and its people as opposed to forming a view from the wrong side of the TV screen. Keep asking.....! Can't wait for the fun blog - is it going to be 'where'sEdward?'

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